Steve MccClure
Norway Sport
I’ve been to Norway about 5 times and it’s always been sunny. So I just assumed that it was always like that. Though clearly this is not the case, as we were to find out. Myself, Neil Mawson, Charlie Woodburn and Liam Halsey had big ideas on Kjerag but plans were frantically changed as my assumed 8 days of sun were drenched with a forecast showing mainly black clouds and blue spots coming out of them, and mainly three spots, which is not good. The window of white clouds was right at the start of the trip; we rushed up Hoka-Hey, a classic E5 of 20 pitches in a 23 hour day. Then, unfortunately, the forecast was correct.
As if by magic, Norwegian geology has produced cliffs that overhang enough to stay dry in the rain and also don’t seep! So we bailed from the mountains. Most stuff is Granite, and really interesting, big features. A lot of flat holds that feel good at first until you get so pumped you can’t hang on! The locals helped us out and pointed the way. There is enough here for a good road trip for 10 days or so, or maybe much longer. Beautiful scenery, wild camping, the chance of world-class single or multi-pitch, and, if it does rain, ever-dry crags with great sport.
We went to 4 different crags. Sirekrok, Planet0, Lodderfjord and Mouvato (this I have no doubt spelt wrongly!). All these were steep (which is why we were there) and mainly powerful climbing with really interesting moves. But the one thing that stands out is the friendliness of the locals. We were looked after like kings, with everyone keen to help out. They speak English better than we do too. You will only have a problem if you are skint and like beer!!! Big thanks to Bernt, Nick, Odd and Stein, and Stein’s mum as we stayed at here house when she wasn’t even there! How trusting is that - 4 scruffy British climbers in a luxury home!
August 11, 2011 10:31 AM
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