Steve MccClure
Masterclass
Masterclass
Last week the Marmot team held a Rock Trip style event over in North Wales. I’m in a privileged position to be invited on something like this. Top climbers coming together from around the world to sample some of the world’s best climbing. Sure we had work to do, product testing and photos, but the main concern was going climbing.
On the way the weather looked sketch. I rang ahead, useful contacts living in Llanberis. Jim let me know it was pouring in the Pass so we bailed to PenTwyn with a high tide and squally showers. Un-motivation upstairs quickly changed as I remembered the famous route ‘Masterclass’, a route I’d been saving and avoiding for years. The guide book description of Moffat’s line is that it was ‘A whisper away from being the world’s first 8a’. Actually that’s more like the UK’s first 8a, ahead of Statement Of Youth just a few hundred yards away (and that’s not including Requiem up in Scotland).
A 7c+ in this style I’d expect to have a fighting chance, crimpy and technical, but the history rattled me and movement wasn’t fluid. Somehow the onsight seemed important and I wanted each move to feel solid, but of course at that grade no move is guaranteed. But perfect conditions were with me to the top. Next was a flash of Chris Doyle’s Masterplan just next door. Confirmed at the grade apparently. And the difference between these two? Not two grades I’d have to say. Controversial? Maybe. Was Moffat really there making history again? Whatever, the history was there anyway, and my Marmot Rock Trip was off to a fine start, with more legends to check out……..
May 29, 2011 09:31 PM
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