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Progress
A progression was evident at Malham yesterday, in various forms. Some small, some large! Yesterday I was back on this new line I’ve been trying. It’s becoming a fitness thing. The moves way up high are still desperate, almost at my bouldering limit, and that is after 9a’s worth of climbing. But I got a new high point, 3 moves or so higher than before, and I also matched my own previous high point again. So a small progression, but still a bunch more to go. But the pleasing thing was being able to climb through the crux of Rainshadow twice in a day, without too much stress. A third time was probably on but driving rain meant it was all a bit horrible and I really couldn’t be bothered. Some years ago I spent many days on Rainshadow and just getting through this crux was the living end and only vaguely possible, in fact I only managed it twice, with one of those times being the tick. So it was good to see progression there too, long term.
But if anyone wanted proof of rising standards Adam Ondra was showing it in buckets. On Monday he had finally cracked Overshadow, and followed that by an onsight of Bat Route (8c) and a working go on Rainshadow (on the same day). When we arrived at about 1pm on Tuesday Rainshadow had already been ticked, first redpoint. He confirmed the grade, and agreed that it was one of the best routes around. What took me over 15 days took him just 2, but obviously could have been done in one, or more likely about an hour!
Later he went up to look at Total Eclipse, a route with a chequered history. John Dunne made the first ascent grading it 8c+/9a. Moffat claimed it easier but broke ‘crucial’ holds off and declared it not possible but Dunne insisted he hadn’t actually used the broken holds. Anyway, whatever the history, Adam was on redpoint within an hour, and through the crux with ease. Unfortunately the top section was soaking wet, blatantly obvious even for spectators 100m away. He came close, but slipped off!
Back on the ground he explained the moves, a few monster reaches, perhaps above me considering my XXX cm shorter reach. 8c+/9a was the grade. It seemed almost arrogant that someone could come down after just an hour on a route, and who would certainly have done it had it been dry, and claim such a high grade. But then you remember, this is Ondra. There is no arrogance, he simply is that good!!
Right now, Wednesday morning, he will be at Ravenstor. Its his last day, or morning rather as he has to leave by 9.30am! So that should be enough time for Mutation, or Hubble, or even both……….
